Native American Sterling & Turquoise Squash Blossom Necklace

NWS 1-1405

~ Before the Spaniards arrived in the 16th century, the Native Americans didn't have horses. Before horses became extinct at the end of the last Ice Age, the North American species of Equus was a small, three-toed animal, more like a sheep than the horse we know today. When Cortez arrived in Central America, his conquistadors rode into town on huge, incredibly muscled horses, fit with sterling conchos on the saddles and bridles. This arrival was certainly awe-inspiring to the natives at that time (1504).

~ As all human cultures have done throughout time, art forms are envied, then copied, and finally adapted to their own cultures. Native Americans not only got the horse from the Spaniards, but they copied some of their designs. That's the story behind the squash blossom necklace. It is said to have originated in Spain, after having been overrun by the Moors, who introduced the squash blossom design to Spain. These were not actually squash blossoms, but pomegranate blossoms. Native Americans didn't have pomegranates, but they did cultivate squash (considered sacred, along with corn). Hence the name, "squash blossom".

~ The "blossoms" traditionally run down either side of the necklace, and at the bottom is the naja (pronounced nah-hah) which is the part that resembles a horse shoe.

~ The photo at left is of Little Wolf & Dull Knife, Cheyenne, by Alexander Gardner, 1873. They were important Northern Cheyenne chiefs. Note the naja pendants on Little Wolf (standing), without the squash blossoms. Originally, and for many centuries, the naja was worn as a pendant suspended from a cord. This symbol became common in many Native American cultures. The blossoms were to become popular about 10 years later. Little Wolf, an important warrior, is also wearing the scalps of many men he defeated in battle, sewn to his shirt. Both men participated in the defeat of Custer at the Little Bighorn 3 years after this photo was taken.

~ This squash blossom necklace for sale today is comprised of 20 handmade, sterling silver blossoms, each of which is tipped with a turquoise cabochon. This is a wonderful, unusual interpretation of the design. The stones are irregular in shape and size, most of which have veins of the matrix rock within them. They range in color from green to blue-green.

~ Each stone has been bezel-set into a saw-toothed setting. This edging is so fine, I needed magnification to see it. This is rarely seen today, usually being much heavier and more obvious.

~ At some point, this necklace was deconstructed and shortened, possibly by an heir. The upper strand has been re-strung onto modern nylon (like fishing line), while the lower strand retains its original, braided, sterling chain. I have the two extra squash blossoms and the 14 beads that were removed. You could use them to add length to the necklace or make a pair of earrings.

~ The length of the necklace is 22". The naja is 2.5" by 2.25". The necklace weighs 148 grams. It is not stamped sterling, but I guarantee that it is sterling silver. Because of the lack of marking (required by law), I believe it was not made for the tourist trade, which is why it's not marked or signed (probably was a gift within a family or tribe). It has an unusually delicate appearance, unlike most that you see made in the past 30 years.

~  The sterling beads are also hand-made. They are hollow, which is traditional for the beads a Navajo calls his, "pearls". It is infinitely much more work to make the 2-piece beads hollow, but it makes the necklace a comfortable weight to wear.

c. 1970, best guess, in excellent condition, almost no tarnish.

Research: The Turquoise Trail, Native American Jewelry and Culture of the American Southwest, by Karasik & Foxx. Also National Archives.

Price = $650.00 nex 3